Week 2: Robinvale to Gundagai (577km) + (162km)

Sunday 26 September: Balranald (84km)
Left Robinvale surrounded by thick fog and a slight head wind. Out on the highway, I passed the turn off to Mungo National Park, with 74km left to go. The shoulder was, at times, smooth and at other times rough with pot holes and sections gouged out. Parts of it had loose gravel and I had to keep removing fine stones from my tyres to avoid punctures or a tyre split. Lake Benanee was on my right. At 20km past the Robinvale turn off, Meilman rest area, a truck stop with a toilet appeared on my right. 5km ahead was Abbotts Tank rest area, also with a toilet, was on my left. Once again, most drivers were considerate and friendly. The stock carriers were as rude as usual, passing way too close even with a clear road. Only one stock driver gave me plenty of space. Some truck drivers gave me a volley of friendly toots, probably pleased that I got off the shoulder when two vehicles passed each other. It was quite warm today, with a cross head wind that kept changing directions as the road snaked left or right. It was mostly a southerly though, so I had to push hard to move forward with any speed. The shoulder disappeared altogether 30km from Balranald, then reappeared again, though very rough at times. I stopped at Prungle Mail rest area, 15km from Balranald and was disgusted to see that someone had left the remainder of a toilet roll as well as used crumpled sheets right next to the rest area. Obviously some people have a toilet in their kitchen! I arrived in Balranald early and had a phone interview with Star FM at Mildura after walking through the town and discovering that Balranald is the home of the Southern Bell Frog, an endangered species. There were frog statues all over the town. Ken and Robyn Griffiths at Balranald Motor Inn very kindly gave me a room for the night. I caught up on some emails (I had 35 emails in one day!), charged accessories and repacked my bag which seemed to weigh more than it did when I first left.
Monday 27 September: Hay (133km)
I had planned to take two days to get to Hay as I didn't feel strong enough for the 133km ride in one day. I was going to turn off to Maude, camp there for the night, then take the back road into Hay. This would mean no rest day until I reached Yass. However, once I left Balranald and crossed the Murumbidgee River, I realised that the wind direction was swinging from south to south westerly, so I was able to gear up for an easier ride. The Hay Plain is mostly flat (unlike the Nullarbor Plain) so I was able to average my speed at 15 km/hr, depending on the road surface. There was even a wide shoulder at times. Too often, though, the road was coarse aggregate. I'd reach speeds of 25 km/hr, then start ricketing along as though on cobblestones. Parts of the shoulder were merely piles of loose gravel or split sections of loose stones, with yellow marks for the Road Transport Authority to fix later (?!), so I could not afford to just sail along, like the guy on a bicycle in "The Great Escape". Motorists, truck drivers and even stock drivers gave me plenty of room and many gave me a friendly toot. By now, the truck drivers would have seen me a few times on the Sturt Highway, so their friendly toots were most welcome. I had two sandwiches, two apples, two oranges and two energy bars in my back pannier, and ate in small doses. The farmers' paddocks were a lush green indicator of recent rains. One farmer, David Groat of "Meringie" stopped to give me a donation and to tell me that he'd just heard me on Mildura's radio station.
I saw a rest area called Willowvale up ahead just past the turn off to Moulamein, but the rest area was obviously not named for its attributes but after the adjoining farm. There wasn't even a bench to sit on. I saw a few foxes jumping around in the fields and, sadly, a couple of spotted harriers had been hit by trucks. It's a pity that the foxes survived. I passed a property called "Hell's Gate". It didn't look very fiery but in summer this area would get very hot. When I reached St. Paul's rest area, I at least had a shelter to sit at. I reapplied sunscreen twice during the day and dotted the tea tree/rosemary oil insect repellent I had bought in Alice Springs. The flies and the thrips did not like this one bit. There was another rest area just past the turn off to Maude - on the left was for trucks and on the right was for motorists. I continued along the highway, my mind made up. To Hay I was going. Just before Pevensey rest area, I encountered road works but I did not have to wait for long. I ushered through the other drivers first, then ambled along behind, not quite reaching 40 km/hr! Pevensey rest area had a huge shelter. Although it was only 30km from Hay, a cyclist could easily pitch a tent in there, particularly if it was raining.
The last 30km to Hay was very uneventful. A few truck drivers gave me a huge thumbs up sign. What would they have done if they knew I have at times cycled up to nearly 200 km in one day? Not today, though. I passed the Shear Outback Museum just outside of Hay, then took the roundabout to the left, crossed the Murrumbidgee River for the second time that day and arrived in this gorgeous little town. People were waving from cars and trucks and a few pedestrians said' "G'day". Nicholas Royal Court Motel very kindly offered me accommodation and the Riverina Grazier phoned to ask me in for an interview tomorrow, so I decided to stay for a rest day on Tuesday and visit the Shear Outback Museum and the Railway Museum to find out about the Dunera Boys, the Italian, German, Austrian, Jewish and Japanese men interred at Hay during the mid-1940s. I received two donations that evening from a couple from Mildura and a man from Canberra.
Wednesday & Thursday 29 & 30 September: Narrandera (95km)
I had planned to reach Darlington Point today, a distance of 115km. Unlike Monday, the wind was back blowing in my face. The shoulder was as rough as usual, with sections churned up and other sections missing. I passed the turn off to Glencoe and some farms very generously supplied by rain over the last few months. I crossed Gum Creek which was overflowing and passed another sad roadside memorial. The wind was freezing and blowing wildly. I rested briefly at Mulberygong rest area and was ignored by a NSW registered Kombivan with its back windows covered with stickers. The occupants were finishing their coffee, then took off in an easterly direction, without so much as a wave. After a few minutes, I followed at a much slower pace. I passed the turn off to Carrathoul Bridge and some farms, including a place called Rudd's Point that had a sign warning people that they were not to enter the property without permission, then bumped along a rough section of road. Road works had recently been laid on the southern side of the road and cars passed me, covering my legs and tyres with loose stones. I noticed a few three corner jacks lodged in my front tyre and stopped to dislodge them before they could do any damage. I was only just over 20km from Darlington Point when I heard that ominous sound of my trailer tyre deflated. There was nowhere to lean the bike against so I pushed the bike to the 80km from Narrandera post where I leaned the bike to remove the trailer tyre. I had spare tubes for the bike but none for the trailer as I had only put a new trailer tube in prior to leaving Adelaide. With the wind howling, I couldn't locate the source of the leak so I had to flag down a van. Des Hodgson from Perth stopped and told me that he would give me a lift to Darlington Point or Narrandera. His gorgeous Doberman (Rex) was a real softie and kept licking off my sunscreen from my face and ears. When we arrived at the servo at the turn off to Darlington Point, it was obvious that they would not have a replacement tyre so we continued to Narrandera, my heart sinking because I knew that I would have to complete this section of the trip on my way home. (*See note at the end of this week's blog.) Des kindly dropped me off at Eurell's, the bike shop at Narrandera, where I was only charged $25 for two tubes and a replacement tyre, then I headed up a very steep hill to Lake Talbot Caravan Park, where I was due on Thursday. I was very kindly offered two nights' accommodation at this beautiful place. That night, I went to bed just after 7:30 and slept for 12 hours!
The next morning, I was to meet with Gerry Daley from Narrandera Council with my bike and trailer. I then visited the local newspaper office for an interview. The newspaper had already published two articles about me but wanted a face to face interview. I also met Peter Royal, a lovely farmer who had had a kidney transplant 11 years ago and was a picture of health, due to his now healthy lifestyle. I then visited the home of Bob & Bev Vidler. Bob was on home dialysis three times a week for 5 hours. The alternative would be a round trip to Griffith Hospital 3 times a week. Bob & Bev very kindly gave a donation, then I had to meet Peter at the community radio station for an interview with "Rusty" who, along with "Frog" gave a donation. I forgot to thank the lovely lady in the coffee shop next to the newspaper office. She made me a lovely cup of coffee and a tasty sandwich. I was looking forward to returning to Narrandera, "town of trees".

Friday 1 October: Wagga Wagga (101km)
I enjoyed the ride out of Narrandera as the scenery was very picturesque - and it was a huge downhill run from the caravan park. Once back out on the highway, I faced that wonderful cold head wind yet again. Curious Black Angus cows stared at me along the fence line as I passed, and I was curious at the name Poison Waterholes Creek. The water looked fresh and abundant but I would have to look into the history of its name. 85km from Wagga Wagga, a feisty old magpie feared by cyclists (I'm going to call him Mitch The Menace) started his harassing swoops for a distance of 3km. He has been known to sit on cyclists' shoulders and peck away, so I hunched up my shoulders, gave my demented eagle sound and yelled my throat hoarse until he finally gave up at the end of his territory. I passed a large number of roadside memorials once again on straight stretches of road. I also passed sections where rain had pooled into small dams and where ducks and egrets enjoyed a swim or digging for food. 56km from Wagga Wagga was a little hamlet called Galore and I stopped at the corner store for a hot coffee and a snack. I was now in Wiradjuri country, but the farms gave no indication of the original custodians. Road works were desperately needed along this stretch, particularly at Bullenbung Creek, another site of a roadside death. Up ahead, road works were taking place but the new road surface wasn't too bad. I stopped at Berry Jerry rest area for lunch, where council workers were pumping out the collection tank of the ablutions block. They looked cheerful enough but I didn't envy them their job, particularly when I ventured inside the toilet. It's hard to believe such disgusting smells come out of human beings! After stopping to chat with some people about my ride, I took off for the last 30km. The ride had been fairly flat but once I reached Collingullie, hills appeared from nowhere while the shoulder completely disappeared. At times, I had to dismount the bike and walk for my own safety as there was little room for me, a truck and another car. for the next 23km, I was playing Dodge while climbing some steep hills and descending fairly rapidly. During one descent, I was stung by a bee on the right thigh. When I reached Wagga Wagga, most of the traffic was considerate, but one truck deliberately cut me off at the traffic lights. I eventually arrived at East's Riverview Caravan Park, where the owners kindly gave me a budget cabin. Unfortunately, the previous occupant had smoked inside the cabin and it reeked of smoke, so the owners gave me some vanilla spray to douse the curtains and bedspread.

Saturday 2 October: Gundagai (81km)
I have become resigned to head winds now. As the saying goes, whatever doesn't kill you makes you stronger. I certainly experienced that after nearly four weeks of battling northerly winds along the Stuart Highway and then finding strength in my legs as I tore up hills at 30km/hr in the West MacDonnell Ranges, with the wind on my tail. There's no escaping a cross head wind - it will get you while you are climbing, while you are descending, and cripple you on the flat. It is the most humbling experience. As I left Wagga Wagga and passed the RAAF base, rain was spitting and clouds were blackening. The wind had woken before me and its familiar howl rang around my ears all the way to Gundagai. Past the turn off to Tumbarumba, the hills started and the air was cooler. I passed an advertising billboard for a property called "The Heights" and the views were spectacular. Green rolling hills, brimming dams, contented cows and bulls grazing on lush grass - farmers couldn't be happier. The rest areas were very exposed and windy - mere truck stops. 50km from Gundagai, I enjoyed a flat section and large farmhouses with sweeping driveways for about 6km before once again climbing into the heavens. A huge climb to the Hume Highway, then hill after steep hill, with no respite from the powerful wind that wanted to rip me back to Wagga Wagga. The Hume Highway was a lot smoother (even the shoulder) and my tyres were able to pick up speed now that they weren't bumping over coarse aggregate. Signs indicating "Slope 11652" and counting down to zero appeared at every hill. On one descent, I was able to reach 40km/hr as the road had veered away from the wind. As I roared down the hill, a huge roo lay as road kill across the shoulder and I was lucky that the inside lane was clear for me to bump over the white rumble strips on to the road momentarily. After an exhausting (and freezing) ride, I arrived at Gundagai and the manager of the Sovereign Inn very generously donated an upstairs room. When I asked him about the road to Yass, a motor cyclist booking into a motel room said, "It's flat all the way to Yass, then downhill to Canberra." The following day, I was cursing every motorcyclist that passed me. Never trust a motorbike rider!
I went for a walk through the quaint little town that is steeped in history. It is also where the greatest natural disaster in Australia occurred when 78 people were drowned during floods. As I looked at houses deep in valleys or perched high on hills, I hoped that history would not repeat itself in this lovely little town.

*Monday 15 November (63km plus return, plus 36km round trip on Sunday)
I drove back to Darlington Point on the Sunday with my bike and rode the 20km - plus a return trip of 20km. Then on the Monday, I rode the 63km into Narrandera, then rode back to Darlington Point, a return trip of 126km. This was to ensure that this was completely unsupported.
On the Sunday afternoon, after driving from Adelaide, I parked at Yarada Rest Area which was 75km west of Narrandera. It was just a truck bay, with no facilities, unlike Birdseye Reserve Rest Area, 11km further back. That was an overnight area with tanks and a drop toilet, but this was no more than a simple truck bay with a water tank not connected to any shelter. I then set out for the ride to the Darlington Point turn off called Waddi. As it was getting late into the afternoon, I was glad that I only had to cycle 18km along the highway before turning around and heading back to the car. I had been warned about locusts but did not see any, although a few dragonflies hit my face as I rode. There had been so much rain over the last few weeks and the roadside was still fairly green. With the cross wind, it took me an hour and a half to cycle the 36km round trip. After reloading the car with the bike, I drove back along the road I had cycled and stayed at Darlington Point Caravan Park, alongside the Murrumbidgee River. The mosquitos were huge and seemed to resist all forms of personal bug spray, so a hike along the river wasn't an option.
The next morning, I took off over the bridge and through the town towards the Sturt Highway, passing the Waddi Roadhouse which is open for 24 hours. The Kidman Way to the right headed towards Coleambally and Jerilderie. Someone called Ron Clarke had some metal sculptures of animals (including a dancing brolga!) in a paddock next to the roadhouse. I crossed over the Coleambally Main Canal which was brimming with water and noticed bales of hay rolled up in the paddocks where only six weeks ago, there were green pastures. Tubbo Station, a huge agricultural concern, was on the right. I then passed Belvedere Farm and other smaller stations, before crossing Yanco Creek and rest areas on both sides of the road, both with a simple shelter and a couple of bins. There was a wide shoulder for most of the way, although the newer road surface was poorly laid. Past Gillenbah Station Road, there was a road to a Pet Motel, then Poison Waterholes Creek and Gillenbah Creek, both filled with water. As I reached the outskirts of Narrandera, a dilapidated ruin that was once a roadhouse was up for sale. I doubt if anyone would want to buy it as two roadhouses were only a stone's throw along the highway. I turned left on to Newell Highway and enjoyed a tail wind for the 3km ride into Narrandera, before turning around and heading back out of the town on to the Sturt Highway. Normally I dislike retracing my route on a bike but I found the scenery enjoyable. The only setback was that the locusts were now swarming. Hundreds were lying squashed on the road, a few more were being hunted by dragonflies and the rest were hitting me at an alarming rate. Thankfully, it only happened in 3 areas. On the way back, I realised that I was heading slightly downhill so, despite the wind from the south, I could pick up speed. After a 126 kilometre round trip, I had finally finished this stretch, arriving back at Darlington Point Caravan Park just after 3pm.

Thank You!

Renal Ride Sydney 2010 is not just a solo effort. This event would not be possible without the generous assistance and generosity of the following people and businesses:
Jackie and Chris who run The Lucky Lodge & Scraps Boarding Cattery at Reynella have provided wonderful care for my cat Eddie since 2005. This is by far the best cattery in Australia. When a couple of Sydneysiders asked me about Lucky Lodge, I was able to tell them that it is 5-star accommodation for felines. It is also a rescue and adoption centre for abandoned and pre-loved cats.
Rick Berry and Trevor Baudinette at Woodcroft Primary School. Rick has been involved with his various classes in my various journeys since The Big Loop in 2007. Trevor has provided invaluable technical advice with website knowledge and preparation of Slide Presentations.
Once again, South Coast Cycles has looked after my bike, preparing it for another arduous journey and providing mechanical assistance.
Vale Signs at Lonsdale once again provided brilliant signage for my bike and a great advertising banner to summarise my journeys.
Toby Clark at EFM Health Clubs Lonsdale motivates and inspires everyone to give their best effort and to believe in themselves to achieve more without compromising safety. He truly leads by example. In May, he led a team of 10 cyclists of various fitness levels from Melbourne to Adelaide to raise over $50,000 for the neo-natal unit at Flinders Medical Centre.
Julie and Neil at Blanchetown Riverside Holiday Park kindly gave me a spa deluxe cabin for a night while I was in Blanchetown. Not only was the cabin spotless, the park was magnificent. If you have never been a lover of the river life, a stay at this park will change your mind forever. Sheer heaven.
Noel at Kirriemuir Motel & Cabins only charged me half price for a room. I had a blissful night's sleep.
Ventura Golden Chain Motel at Renmark was a lovely place to stay after a busy day of interviews and riding. It was also my last place in South australia before crossing the border. Thank you so much for your generosity.
Dave and Su Walsh at Robinvale Motel gave me a discount on a room, a generous donation and Su cooked me a complimentary Thai meal. I adore Thai food, but this meal was the best Thai cuisine I have ever tasted.
Ken & Robyn Griffiths of Balranald Motor Inn generously gave me a night's accommodation and greeted me with a friendly hello. After a gruelling day on the highway, I was able to recuperate in luxury, ready for another week of hills, head winds and potholes.
Nicholas Royal Motel at Hay very kindly gave me accommodation after cycling 133km from Balranald. Monica was most welcoming and gave me a family room, ideas about the best places to eat and details about places to visit while in Hay. Its central location yet quiet, comfortable setting was idyllic.
Lake Talbot Tourist Park is worth a climb up the hill. Situated one kilometre from the town centre, it offers breathtaking views of Lake Talbot and the Narrandera State Forest. Hosts Barry and Jill Bolwell kindly offered me two wonderful nights here. You'd want to stay a week here to soak up the wonderful atmosphere.
Easts Riverview Holiday Park in Wagga Wagga very kindly gave me a cabin for the night. This is definitely the place to stay if you want to be far enough from the busy town but still close enough to all facilities. Thank you for accommodating me on a very busy weekend.
Sovereign Inn at Gundagai is right on the edge of town, within walking distance of the main attractions yet quiet enough to offer a great night's sleep. A big thank you to the manager for giving me a lovely room, especially as I was losing an hour's sleep - thanks to daylight saving.
David and Linda of Bike Odyssey at Goulburn for their wonderful company and hospitality. I first met Dave and Linda when I cycled through Goulburn in 2007 when Nick was about 8 months old. This amazing couple have taken touring cycling to a new level, having cycled around Australia TWICE and various places overseas. Nick also had a little brother, Alex, and you must read Dave and Linda's blog Down the Danube in a Boo Buggy (Zurich to Vienna). They not only took their boys but camped out along the Danube. It was a real privilege to meet up with you both again.

Donations

Many thanks to the wonderful people who have already generously donated to Kidney Health Australia.

$1000 – CMV Foundation, Adelaide.

$100 – Vale Signs, Lonsdale.

$60.90 – Anonymous donors.

$50 – Vasarelli’s, McLaren Vale.

$20 – Blessed Cheese; Oxygen Cycles.

$15 – Market 190; McLaren Vale Florist.

$10 – McLaren Vale Garden Centre; Beyond Beautiful Style Lounge; Manfield Newsagency; McLaren Vale Takeaway.

$5 – Graeme Walker; M. Rowntree; Country Life Fashions; Ellis Butchers; McLaren Vale Galleries; Peninsula Mowers; Healthy Life.

$3 – Kathryn Barry.

$2 – Melissa Barry.
$100 - Ben and Al of Blend Constructions.
$50- Robinvale Motel; Bob & Bev Vidler of Narrandera.
$20 - Harley Davidson riders; Kim Manning of Barmera, David & Carolyn Groat of "Meringie", Rankins Springs; Rusty of Narrandera.
$18.40 - Anonymous donations
$10 - Deb & Matt of Mt Barker; Julie of Barmera, Frog of Narrandera.
$5 - Dave of Brisbane.
$20 - Bert & Margaret Weeks; Basic Steel Supplies; Lonsdale Birds.
$10 - Clint Matthews; Solar Depot; Outback Power Solutions; Stress Free Marine; Southern Radiators; Lonsdale Sheet Metal; Terry; Dane.
$5.50 - Tile Wizards.
$5 - M Stark; Sharon Clarke.
$89.45 - Anonymous donors.
$50 - Ethel Hards.
$5 - Santa's helper: Rose.
Donations online:
The Wanderer  06 Oct 10  donation $25.00 AUD  Margie, you are an amazing lady. I often think of where our pathes crossed on your around the country tour. Wishing you the best on your newest ride! Cheers from the other side of the Pacific. 
Lyall Smith  26 Sep 10  donation $50.00 AUD  We commend your effort for a very worthwhile cause.I was lucky enough to be able to donate a kidney to my son Brad who was diagnosed with end stage Kidney failure at age 31 
$85 - commission from sales of Kat Raynor's EP 'Best Kept Secret'.

Week 1: Adelaide to Robinvale (512km)

Sunday 19 September: Gawler (66km)
Left on a cool morning with a fine sprinkle of rain and a SE wind. Enjoyed a clear ride down the Veloway, then followed Marion Road to Anzac Hwy. Had to take a detour due to the layout of the City to Bay Fun Run but wound back on to Anzac Hwy and continued along West Tce, before heading along Franklin St to Morphett St. Met Alison at the Morphett Street Bridge, then cycled to Montefiore Hill where Colonel Light's statue stands guard over the city of Adelaide.
Had a lovely ride down Prospect Road. The cycle track is ough in places but at least it's a better route than Main North Road. I stopped for a leisurely coffee, enjoying the relaxed pace. When I reached Gepps Cross, I had to watch out for pedestrians heading to the markets at the old drive-in site.
Wondered whether or not to take the Salisbury Hwy route or continue to the new Northern Expressway bike track that heads to Gawler. I often ride along Salisbury Hwy during training runs so I knew the road well. A big plus is a wide bike track that ends just past the Salisbury Hwy turn off to Gawler. Ashley Walsh from ABC 891 Weekends phoned for an interview at 10:15. Ashley has followed my cycle journeys since my ride from Perth in 2008. After stoping at Salisbury Cemetery to pay my respects to my sister who dies in 2004, I cycled back to Salisbury Hwy, then I continued through Elizabeth along Philip Hwy before timidly venturing on to Main North Road. Actually, the drivers were very considerate, but I was glad when a bike track, albeit rough, appeared past Munno Para. I arrived in Gawler before 1pm and stopped to talk to a number of interested travellers. No donations, but some had heard me on 5AA or on the ABC.



Monday 20 Sept: Blanchetown (93km) Left Gawler in a drizzle of rain. My knees were cold - I wish I had brought my leg warmers. I had brought them on my ride to Darwin and hadn't used them once. Who would have thought that it would be this cold in September? Did a lot of low hill climbs today in a strong head southerly wind. At times, there was a reasonable shoulder on the Sturt Hwy but its condition deteriorated quickly. I envied the smooth highway but did not dare venture on to it. Road works west of Nuriootpa caused me some concern as there was only one lane with no shoulder. I decided to cycle right of the bollards (thankfully there was a line of bollards to my right as well so that I could cycle inside a corridor). When the safety barrier ran out, I risked my chances on the single lane again, bumping along the road's edge. Most of the drivers were brilliant and one truck driver gave me a friendly wave when I hopped off my bike and walked the bike in the gravel to let the traffic pass. Truck drivers can make or break your reputation, so I was glad to have them on my side.
I passed lush green fields and carpets of growing hay - the winter and spring rains had been generous to the farmers - and enjoyed the flowering native buffer zones, arriving at Nuriootpa Primary just before 10am. The students viewed the slide show and asked some amazingly perceptive questions. One boy was chuffed that I had stayed in Elliston and one girl told me that she knew that kidneys take toxins out of the body. A huge thank you to Sue Toone, Assistant Principal, for organising this visit.
With the cold wind, it was tempting to stay in Nuriootpa but I needed to push on. Once back on the highway, I still had 60km to cycle to Blanchetown. Truro Hill was a challenge, particularly when the shoulder ran out. Disgusted at my lack of courage, I got off the bike and walked to remain safe - I also did not want to annoy drivers by making them slow down for me. I decided to stop at Truro for lunch and a lovely person from Mount Barker gave a donation and spoke to me about my ride. A couple from Victoria were amazed at how far I had travelled already and I had to admit that I felt very slow today. I was feeling a bit sore (not to self: never put a new saddle on a bike a week before a long journey!) but kept saying tp myself, "Only 46km to go." I had a few hills to climb but also a couple of downhill stretches. The first downhill was fun but I felt the trailer lift and wobble on the second descent, after a wind gust and a road train nearly blew me off the road. I was very careful not to slam on my brakes, otherwise I would have been severely injured, if not killed. Passing a couple of roadside memorials gave me a reason to be cautious as well. I was aghast to read that my speed reached 53.8 km/hr, way too fast with a laden trailer and a strong head wind.


Once I passed Brookfield Conservation Park, it was not far to Blanchetown. This gorgeous little town is set back from the highway and has some of the friendliest people on the planet. Julie and Neil at Riverside Holiday Park had offered me a deluxe spa unit for the night. The park was at the bottom of a steep hill but in an idyllic setting beside the river, far from traffic noises. Julie and Neil were lovely hosts and Neil took me to the corner store (Chook's) to get some supplies. I wished I could have stayed more than one night here. Apparently the Blanchetown Hotel still has the original furnishings. I will definitely put this lovely little town, this beautiful caravan park and Chooky's on my list of favourite places in Australia. Forget the roadhouse on the highway and come into this little town.

Tuesday 21 September: Waikerie (43km)
Woke to a beautiful sunrise over the Murray River and enjoyed the fish jumping out of the water. Apparently the lock upstream oxygenates the water and sends the fish hyper. After saying goodbye to Neil and Julie, I made my way out of Blanchetown via the hotel road (less steep) and found my way back to the highway. If I was hoping for a tail wind, my hope was in vain. The wind was a cold south-easterly and there was a drizzle of rain keeping the humidity high. The road was fairly flat once I had crossed the Murray River, but the shoulder was very rough. I stopped at a rest area about 20km west of Waikerie, but there was graffiti over the signs and rubbish was dumped there. I wondered why the council had not cleaned it up. I continued towards the town, being pleasantly surprised by the fruit trees and orange orchards as I rode into the town. I stopped at the bakery and chatted to Gwen Webber before making my way to the caravan park. The sign to the park had been turned in the wrong direction and I went down the wrong road, stopping to chat to Greg who is a keen cyclist. Greg does a lot for the youth in the town, getting them into welding apprenticeships. When I arrived at the caravan park, the poor girl in attendance had to turn me away because the park was full. It's always nice when park managers don't respond to your emails. I left the park, climbed back up the huge hill, stopping to chat to Deb & Matt about my ride. They gave me a donation and I continued up the hill to the road out of Waikerie, stopping at the Nippy's factory to get two small (?) oranges and a ginger beer. I am now a devotee of Nippy's ginger beer, but why don't shops in South Australia stock this brand? The manager of Kurriemuir Cabins & Motel kindly offered me a motel room for half price. I spent the afternoon walking down to the Murray River lookout and catching up on my mail.

Wednesday 22 September: Renmark (79km)
I was on the road early, greeted by my old nemesis, a head wind. I decided to have breakfast at the bakery on the highway then, fuelled with hot coffee, I steeled myself for the cold wind. It was a bit of a climb up the highway, but I glimpsed views of the Murray River through the trees. I passed a pretty little church at Lowbank and a number of roadside memorials. This road was obviously a speed strip. The shoulder was as rough as ever. I stopped at a rest area to view a plaque dedicated to 2 policemen, the first to die whilst on duty (in 1847). My flag mast was bent right back and the flag was fluttering from side to side. Oh well, once more into the breach. I passed the turn off to Loxton, with only 12km to get to Barmera. I took a detour to the lookout at Kingston Bridge and was ignored by two Queenslanders who arrived at the same time I did. I went for a brief walk out along the bridge and noticed roadside memorials on both sides of the road, a legacy of a head-on collision. I then went back to the bike and ventured warily across the bridge. 5km out of Barmera, vineyards appeared, as did a cranky old magpie squawking and flapping his wings. Just as I approached the town, two bogans in a Ford screamed something unintelligible. At least the magpie had an excuse. I rode into Barmera and a lovely local called Julie chatted to me and gave a donation. I then headed up the hill to the Bush Museum, before cycling out to the highway. I stopped at the servo for lunch and the proprietor Kim Manning gave me a donation and put me in touch with the River News at Berri. It was only a 4km detour but I was making good time, despite the head wind. Kim's brother had been killed by a drunk motorist while cycling. I took the Old Sturt Road into Berri, surprised at the number of trucks that still used this road. I then met Megan and had a quick interview before once more getting "back on the horse" and making my way out of Berri. I couldn't believe how much Berri was in a valley and it took a steep climb to leave it. I passed the Big Orange, now a dilapidated site, then reached the Sturt Highway once again. When I reached Renmark, the Ventura Golden Chain Motel proprietors were very generous in supplying a room and I once again had a wonderful night's sleep.

Thursday 22 September: Lake Cullulleraine (85km)
The bridge crossing the Murray leaving Renmark had a cyclists' track, unlike the bridge entering Renmark the day before. I cycled out and up a steep hill, with lovely views of the river and the lush green growth along the banks. When I saw the huge Dunlop tyre arching over the road, I thought I had reached the border, but it was only Yamba, the edge of the Riverland. I stopped for a huge breakfast at the servo and listened to a group of truckies taking the mickey out of everyone on the Sunrise programme that was on the TV. I then set off in the cold air, shrugging at the now familiar head wind that chomped around my ears. The border was actually 27km from Renmark but I needed to step up the pace as I lost 30 minutes at the border. I cycled past the Murray Sunset National Park and noticed how much greenery there was. The acacias were in full bloom too. At 11:30, a bright red car with Mildura Weekly emblazoned on it pulled up and Alan Erskine conducted an interview. I thanked him for his time and continued until reaching Cullulleraine. I cycled past the caravan park and continued to the only store in "town" where I had a delicious steak sandwich with the lot for only $7. While I was eating, I heard two little terriers whining and these cute little heads peeked under a fence, begging for food. They certainly had this act down to a fine art, and I gave in by giving them both a couple of pieces of my steak. When they knew that I had finished, their little heads disappeared. I cycled back up a slight hill to the caravan park by the lake. It was a full moon that night and the moon reflected dreamily in the lake.

Friday 24 September: Mildura (58km)
It was going to be a short trip today but the wind did nothing to help. I witnessed a glorious sunrise before setting off for another cool day. Luckily, the shoulder was fairly wide and reasonably smooth and with 16km to go, the road doglegged and I rode past the airport with the wind over my right shoulder. I stopped at the little store and servo at Merbein South and June and Ivanka gave me a Mildura Weekly with me splashed over the front page. I also appreciated the free coffee and their good wishes. Outside, Dave, a truckie from Brisbane, gave me a donation and wished me all the best. I had another interview with the Sunraysia Daily upon my arrival in Mildura, then the rest of the day was mine.

Saturday 25 September: Robinvale (86km)
As I left Mildura on a once again cold morning, I was greeted by friendly passers-by out for a morning jog. I crossed the Murray, leaving Mildura and its lovely houseboats and I was now in New South Wales. I stopped at a little bakery in Gol Gol for a coffee (just to warm up), then headed out for a climb past farms with their entrances festooned with blossoms and blooms of every colour. I immediately noticed the deterioration of the road surface but at least the wind was still over my right shoulder, giving me some relief and an opportunity to pick up the pace on the hilly sections. Some Harley riders passed me and were waiting for some mates at the top of the next hill. I stopped to chat to them and they gave some donations before heading off to see some relatives at Robinvale before heading back to Melbourne. I passed one rest area but decided to take advantage of the wind on my tail. The next rest area was only an hour's ride away, so I stopped there to reapply sunscreen and stretch. Just as I was about to leave, a cyclist from Scarborough lumbered along the road, heading west. Grant looked pretty beat, so I gave him my half litre of cranberry juice. He had originally planned to cycle with his brother but the latter had a fight with some witches' hats and ended up in hospital. He had no camera so I agreed to take a photo and email it to him. I still haven't heard back from him - but his lack of charity won't stop me from being kind to fellow cyclists. I had received a generous donation from Ben and Al of Bonney Hills (they had pulled up in a truck and asked me if I needed help. "Just a donation") so I was not going to let someone else spoil my sense of well-being. 9km from Euston, the shoulder I had been enjoying suddenly disappeared and I was heading up a hill and around a hairy bend. People were hurrying on the road to get home to watch the Grand Final and I had to get off the road a couple of times when trucks approached, but I arrived at the turn-off to Robinvale in one piece. Once I crossed over the Murray River yet again, I was back in Victoria. Robinvale is a twin town of Villers-Bretonneux in France, where many of our brave soldiers in World War One died. I arrived at the Robinvale Motel where Dave and Su Walsh gave me a discount for the room, a lovely Thai dinner and a generous donation. They both want to start up a school in Thailand for underprivileged children. Thank you both for your generosity.